12/8/2023 0 Comments Ammonia brown patina brassBlack - semi-gloss (for Cast Bronze and Brass) Color develops gradually and remove after 15 min. When a reddish-purple color is attained from 10 to 30 min. A reddish orange color begins after 2-3 min. Red-Purple Satin (for Cast Bronze and Brass) Remove after 5 min., wash in warm water and air dry. Immerse in hot solution (140-158☏, 60-70☌) which etches surface. Dull Pink (for Copper & amp Copper Plate) Important note: In general, chemically induced finishes are unsuitable for use on articles to be used with food.Ģ1. Remove to hot water while ammonium chloride is added to the cupric sulfate solution. Immerse in boiling cupric sulfate solution about 15 min. Red - semi-matt (for Copper & amp Copper Plate) Variations of this formula add a pinch of Sulfurated Potash, Ferric Nitrate, or Cupric Nitrate for a slight coloring effect.Ģ0. KOSHER salt with no additives is available at most markets and will work for this. 5 parts - DO NOT USE TABLE SALT - If you use table salt you will not achieve the desired affect as IODIZED salt has iodine in it. Then dip into diluted (1 acid:8 water) Nitric acid for 1/2 hour, remove, wash and dry. Not sure why they specified grains, so I wrote the conversions in grams as well.īrush to surface for color.May produce a grey blue when tap water is used. A preservative such as paste wax or polyurethane is necessary. Additional applications and chemical action turn the metal light green.Ī transparent, dip process patina. Early stages of this recipe produce purple. Temperature at 170 to 190☏, a hot process especially for brass. (Trial and error for certain levels)Ī cold process that is said to work well on brass For deeper green add 16 units of cupric sulfate. I'm not really sure what they mean by UNITS, but it doesn't really matter, its equal parts of everything.Ī cold process, opaque patina which should be applied at 12 hour intervals for several days.Combines well with most brown and black cold process patinas. Frog green results after several applications, 1/2 hour intervals. For Yellow Green, dip in dilute nitric acid, then wash and dry.Ī cold process, opaque patina. Wash solution over metal surface, let dry, then wash piece in cool water. Solution hot (180 to 190☏), metal hot (200☏), cold wash water applied after metal has cooled to around 100☏. Heat metal and apply a fresh mixture for each coloring. When finished, wax over the patina to darken and set the color. You may want to use a slightly damp paper.īurnish the surface with steel wool or wire brushes. When a light brown rust color appears rinse well with cool water.ĭry with newspaper - it is very important to use newspaper. This old Italian formula produces a rich brown patina.Īpply evenly with a brush, sponge, or sprayer and let it dry. Sulfurated Potash - grape sized lump (crushed).(Red to reddish brown has also been reported using this recipe.) So if the formula says to use 1/2 teaspoonful, by all means use a measuring scoop that reads either 2.5ml or 1/2 teaspoonful, but if it says to use 8oz, please do not use a 1 cup measuring spoon. You'll get a better patina and be happier with the result. Measuring by weight is much more accurate than by volume. Please, when using any powder, WEIGH the powder using a scale if the instructions read as a weight. So if a formula says 1/4 oz you need to weigh out 7.1gm of something. I have done so and provided a few notes to make them a bit easier to understand.įor people that aren't used to pints, tsp, tbsp etc.ġ pint = 473ml (roughly 16oz) "A pint is a pound, the world around!"ġ grain is approximately 30mg, so 33 grains is roughly 1 gram Triw posted a link to a website with a BUNCH of patina formulas that I feel deserves to be posted here as well. But then they don't tell you HOW to use that chemical in order to get the desired results. Often times you'll see someone mention "you can use BLAH BLAH BLAH and it will give you a green patina". I know there are many many posts on different copper patina's.
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